In Rome With Cigar

A week into the American Academy. 

On Friday I worked in the morning and then went to Trastevere with John Matteo to find the art supply store. Saw Bramante’s Tempietto which was quiet, small and beautiful. Elegant and simple proportions, the kind of thing that could be built in a couple of months, finished in a few more but which changed the world. It is so simple and complex.

It is within the Spanish quadrant of the Janiculum. The Royal Spanish Academy is outside, the church was funded by Ferdinand and Isabella and the tempietto is within the courtyard. Its halfway up the hill. A pleasant respite from the walk and walk. I have to try to take the buses now as my feet are starting to hurt.

After that we stopped at Santa Maria in Trastevere. This is where Rome retreated when Aleric broke the aquaduct and starved the Palantine of fresh water. The population shrunk from 1000000 to 20000 or less. It has a small town Medieval feeling, more Verona than Milano and, except for the steep climb, a pleasant neighborhood to live in. It takes a while to learn Rome, I am still taking baby steps. Getting lost constantly but beginning to locate certain landmarks and find myself on streets for the second or third time. It will take a while but I like it. The weather is cool and pleasant, warm in the sun, brisk in the morning or evening.

Santa Maria in Trastevere is ancient, recycled granite columns of unequal height and girth. Central core with 2 side allees. Beautiful mosaics in the nave and on the exterior over the loggia before the entrance.  12 cent restoration over 8^th, 5^th and original 4^th cent. church. Forgot camera.

Saturday morning went with David Pearson to Palantine to measure section for his proposal to redesign the entrance to the site. He was very knowledgeable about the construction of the ancient Roman center. I have been reading histories and have begun to understand bits and pieces of the history so to actually see the places was astonishing.  The via Sacra turns and spins around each temple and monument. Wide enough for a procession but narrow enough to be confining. The building scale was enormous.  The Venus and Rome (AMOR-ROMA) temple a full city block long and emensely tall. The  Maxentius and Constantine Basilica (from the Greek Basilike, King’s, therefore the throne room and seat of state.) with aisles and now fallen concrete dome.

Past the small house of Augustus is the Imperial Palace. It was atop the hill, looking down on all, and topped out only by the water level of the aqueduct, which essentially established the highest point in Rome.

Sunday was a walk all over the city. Headed to Belvedere, did s drawing, then lots of strolling over lots of territory. Rome is a big small town and, little by little, it is starting to come together.